Edinburgh Castle

Edinburgh Castle sits at the other end of the “Royal Mile” of Edinburgh from the Palace. The Royal Mile is the traditional name for the roadway between the Palace of Holyroodhouse and the castle. Once travelled by kings and queens, its daily name now is High Street as it runs through Old Town.

Nowadays, High Street changes names in the last tenth of a mile, but the road into the castle winds up the hill, across the esplanade, through the gate, and leads visitors deep into the castle’s heart. At the very top is the center of the castle. Parts of the castle have been destroyed then rebuilt, and other parts have simply been built on top of, so one must abandon any effort to make chronological sense of the road’s progress.

You must cross the dry moat, to reach the gate, guarded on the left by William Wallace, and on the right by Robert the Bruce. Above is the Scottish Lion, and the motto, “Nemo Me Impune Lacessit,” dating from at least James VI. It means, “No one injures me without fear of punishment.”
Once you’re through the main gate, you cross the outer courtyard, and go through this second gate. The outer courtyard now holds tourist practicalities – ticket booths, audio tour handsets, and such.
When you’ve passed the second gate and turn around, the inside of the gate looks like this. The stairs on the right are the “L’ang Stairs,” which go up to the top courtyard. The gate building has different kinds of stone because the older upper part was destroyed during the “L’ang Siege” in 1571 – 1573, and was not fully rebuilt until the general restoration of the castle in 1887.

The wide view of the surrounding countryside from the hilltop is why this spot has been used for defence for over a thousand years. It was used as a gathering place in 638 AD, as mentioned in “Y Gododdin,” an ancient Welsh poem that includes the earliest reference to “Din Eidyn,” a precursor to “Edinburgh,” which is pronounced, “edinburra.”

The broad view from the height of Edinburgh Castle made it an attractive place for defending the monarchs of Scotland.

Around 1140 AD, King David I ordered the nobles and clergy to gather at Edinburgh Castle to enact laws and pass judgements, a forerunner of the current Parliament that now meets in a very modern building near the Holyrood Palace.

During the Wars of Independence, the castle changed hands several times between the Scots and the English, most famously in 1314, when Robert the Bruce led a small force in a stealth attack. The group climbed up the northern rock face on a moonless night, surprising the English defenders. Robert ordered the castle to be “slighted,” a term that means to destroy or damage an asset – building, boat, farm – so it cannot be used by the enemy.

Edinburgh Castle is a living castle. Royalty no longer lives here, nor do they make overnight visits to the palace. But events are held in the Great Hall, and the Scottish War Memorial, the One O’clock Gun, and the National War Museum, all attract visitors, both native and foreign. The local military governor lives in a house in the castle, and two military units have museums there besides the ones above.

In a less stable time, Edinburgh Castle was the royal residence. Its walls wound around the hill, protecting the palace and the other buildings required to maintain the monarch and impress friends and enemies with the futility of challenging said monarch.

There were four cannon batteries that defended the castle. Dury’s Battery is no longer there. It was built around 1710, after the 1708 Jacobite uprising, but was dismantled after 1757 and the area became an exercise yard for prisoners of war. The oldest battery was built in 1544 by James V – the Forewall Battery – along the line of the medieval defense. The Half-Moon Battery was built after the “L’ang Siege” of 1571-73. It’s located on top of the remains of the residential tower (destroyed during the L’ang Siege) built by David II in the 1300s. The fourth battery, the Argyll Battery, was built around 1730. All of the cannons that are presently in these three batteries date from the early 1800s.

The Argyll Battery was built in 1730 – 1732, however, the cannons now occupying the battery date from 1810.
The Half-Moon Battery is spread across the front of the Castle, overlooking the Esplanade, the approach to the Castle from High Street.

There are two more cannons. One is a current design: the One o’Clock Gun, pictured below. It is fired daily at precisely one o’clock, a tradition that began in 1861 to provide the ships in the Leith port an accurate time setting for navigation. It was silenced only during WWI when soldiers recovering from battle fatigue were being cared for in the castle’s hospital.

The other is Mons Meg, below, a huge cannon that was given to James II by Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy. It was made in the city of Mons, Belgium, in 1449, designed to smash castle walls. She was moved to different locations, despite weighing more than six tons, using horses or oxen. The path in front of her had to be levelled by gangs of laborers, and a timber-framed winch was used to remove her from the cart and into position.

No one knows where the “Meg” part of her name came from. I think it was alliterative and a single syllable – it just fit, and the name stuck.

The Palace was built on the upper courtyard, guarded by Foog’s Gate, which was the main entrance until the outer wall was looped around the hill to accommodate both cannons and musketry by King Charles II. Early kings of Scotland used the castle as a residence. Even though Queen Mary I, better known as “Mary, Queen of Scots,” lived primarily at Holyrood Palace, she gave birth to James VI here, probably because she felt more secure at such a vulnerable time, given the turmoil during her brief reign.

The Castle palace with its tower, and the Great Hall is to the right.

The only room open in the palace when I visited was Laich Hall, a lovely room that was restored for James VI when he returned in 1617 after a 14 year absence, having become also James I of England in 1603. He hosted a banquet there, then left and never returned. The last royal presence here was James’ son, Charles I, who stayed here before his Scottish coronation in 1633. After the Act of Union, there was no separate coronation.

Laich Hall: You can tell this was restored for James VI, the first King of Scotland and England, because the coat of arms over the fireplace gives equal space to the Unicorn of Scotland and the Lion of England. The Red Scottish Lion has been relegated to the top of the shield, greatly reduced in size. The figures on either side of the coat of arms are stylized Adam and Eve.
The Great Hall in Edinburgh Castle

The Great Hall was built for King James IV, who wanted it for ceremonial occasions. This was a constant theme that ran through my visits to castles and palaces – nobility and monarchs used their buildings to advertise their wealth and power. The Great Hall is a good example. The walls are panelled, the ceiling is high and elegantly constructed, the windows are stained glass with displays of coats of arms embedded among other decorations.

The Great Hall was completed in 1512. Mary Queen of Scots held a banquet here on her return to Scotland from France in 1561.

Between ceremonial uses, the Great Hall is filled with displays of weaponry and armor from various periods and places. Some of the suits of armor are battle trophies rather than vintage Scottish armor.

The black square in the upper right is a “Laird’s Lug.” The laird of a manor had a place to stand behind the screen and hear – and perhaps see – what his guests were saying or doing without his presence in the hall.
Not all of the armor is Scottish. Armor captured in battle was displayed as a trophy of war. This armor was captured from a Spanish soldier.
The impressive ceiling of the Great Hall.

In 1650, Oliver Cromwell converted the hall into soldiers’ barracks. The hall was restored in 1887 by Queen Victoria, and is still used for state functions today.

“Twa-handed” swords weighed around 6 lbs., and had a “basket handle” to protect the user’s hands. The polearms on display were called “halberds,” a combination of axe heads, spikes, and hooks, to pull men from their horses. War has never been a pretty business.
These royal coats of arms are labelled. At the top, left to right, are King James III and King James IV. In the lower windows, left to right, are King James V, Queen Mary I, Regent Murray, and King James VI. Regent Murray was probably for James VI, since he became king at a very young age when Queen Mary was deposed. Given the arms represented, this was probably installed as part of the 1887 restoration of the hall. James VI was the last Stuart king that was King of Scotland alone, before he and the succeeding Stuarts became rulers of both Scotland and England.

Sitting across the courtyard from the Great Hall is the Scottish War Memorial. Carved over the main door are the years 1914 – 1918, so presumably it began as a memorial to those lost in the “war to end all wars.” Sadly, there were more. On the inside – no photos allowed – were tributes to people from many wars or colonial conflicts, and included support personnel, such as medical units and engineering corps.

The main entrance: note the proud, but subdued, solemn stance of the Unicorn and the Lion.
The Mourning Unicorn
The recent observance of Veterans’ Day (U.S.) and Remembrance Day (U.K.) reminded me of this.
St. Margaret’s Chapel, the oldest standing building in Edinburgh.
The stained glass windows are beautiful, but not original. The windows date from about 1920.
A view of St. Margaret’s Chapel through Foog’s Gate. Mons Meg is just on the other side of the Chapel now. There is some speculation that the Chapel was, at one time, a room in a building that has been torn down around it.
The Argyll Tower is built on top of the medieval gate tower. It was supposed to be restored in the style of David II’s tower dating from the 1300s, but without any record of its original appearance, Hippolyte Blanc’s design ended up looking like baronial Scottish architecture. It sits on top of the second entrance gate, pictured near the beginning of the post. It housed important prisoners, similar in purpose to the Tower of London.
The National War Museum is devoted to the military history of Scotland – the Highlanders, the Wars for Independence, and the contributions of Scotland to the armed forces of the United Kingdom, which are many and notable. The museum is well put together and worth a visit. There is a very good short film that talks about Scotland’s history included in the museum.
“The Thin Red Line,” painted in 1881 by Robert Gibb, shows the 93rd Highlanders at the Battle of Balaclava, 1854, in the Crimean War. They formed a “thin line,” only two men deep, to repel an attack by the Russian cavalry. Despite the drama of this close encounter, historically, the cavalry was driven off much further away by the accurate fire of their modern rifles. The painting, coming as it did a full twenty-seven years after the incident, speaks more to the reputation of the Highland regiments than historical accuracy.
A very good display about the prisoners of war that spent time in Edinburgh Castle. Some were Americans! Naturally, the prison was located down in the depths of the castle, by my reckoning, some of it was under the Great Hall.
Where the prisoners lived, except when allowed up to the exercise yard.
How it fits together: View of the Castle from the esplanade in front. The turret in the left-center background is the residential part of the palace. The cannon batteries are arrayed across the front of the rounded tower and the right wall at the top. The peaked roof to the right side is the Argyle Tower atop the second gate. The National War Museum square is on the far left side of the Castle.

The Castle, like the history of Scotland, is a complicated set of many layers with diversions interspersed along the way, a great adventure to understand how Scotland became such a brew of creativity and beauty.

The Palace of Holyroodhouse

“Rood” is the Scottish word for “The True Cross,” the cross upon which Jesus was crucified, so the word, “Holyrood,” meant “Holy Cross,” and the Abbey was the “Holyroodhouse.”

It is more usually called Holyrood Abbey, for brevity’s sake. It was founded in 1128 by King David I in honor of his mother, Margaret, who was later made a saint. The Palace began life as a guesthouse for the Abbey, and then the Abbey gave its name to the Palace of Holyroodhouse when it was expanded to be a royal residence in the 15th century, and became the large and lovely place it is today.

The outer courtyard is large, but still dominated by this beautiful fountain. Everywhere I looked on it, it had another face, another animal, another figure or foliage. It’s amazing. Many hours of meditation are available here.

The Unicorn, a symbol of the Scottish nation, and the thistle, the national flower.
When I saw these two fellows, I wondered why they were grasping two ends of a sword, but not in a proper grip for fighting. It’s the problem with no guides to ask.

The palace is built in a large, square shape. The side facing the outer courtyard has the entry gate, and twin towers on both front corners. These particular towers, pictured below, are where Mary, Queen of Scots’ private royal chambers were.

The northwest tower, where Mary, Queen of Scots, had her chambers.
The entrance to the inner courtyard, and palace proper. The northwest tower is quite large – not just the two turrets that one sees from the front.
The gate to the inner courtyard. The entrance is closed by a pair of large wooden doors.
One way to know that this palace was built when Scotland was a separate country, is that there is no lion facing the unicorn on this coat of arms over the gate. It is two unicorns, the symbolic animal of Scotland, and thistles, the flower of Scotland.
Having just entered, looking straight across the inner courtyard.

It was a rainy day when I visited the Palace of Holyroodhouse. The rain came and went. The clouds hung around, sometimes lighter, sometimes darker, but always present. If you are concerned about having fresh water, you should come here.

A display of swords with the Scottish “basket” handle, designed to protect the hand holding the sword.
The ceiling of the Great Stair in the southwest tower, plaster images and friezes. Paintings are plentiful throughout the palace. The art work in the palace is wonderful. Decorations for this area were chosen mainly by Prince Albert, husband of Queen Victoria.
A corner detail of the ceiling.
The formal dining room is by the Great Stair.
Partially blocked by the candles and chandelier is a portrait of George IV in the Highland dress outfit he had made especially to visit Scotland in 1822. The kilt is the Royal Stewart Tartan, along with a dirk, sword, belt, and powder horn.
These thrones were commissioned by King George V in 1911, for himself and Queen Mary.

Queen Elizabeth II stays here during Holyrood Week, and hosts lunch in the Throne Room for Knights and Ladies of the Order of the Thistle, the highest order of chivalry in Scotland. “Holyrood Week” is held in mid-summer and is designed to celebrate Scottish culture and history – probably skipping the rebellions.

Anyone who watched the BBC series of 2003 about Charles II will recognize this portrait that hangs in the Throne Room. It was painted by John Mitchell Wright (1617 – 1694,) a skilled painter, judging by his success in portraying the variety of textures that appear: ermine, satin, woven cloth, hair, and tapestries. Charles II died in 1685 of apoplexy, and was succeeded by his brother, James II.
The anteroom to the Privy Chamber. Guests waited here for their audience with the King.
Queen Elizabeth II has a small collection of family photos on display here.
The Privy Chamber, which apparently doubled as a place to entertain, judging by the card table.
The surface is covered with playing card imagery. I think it would be hard to play bridge on a table like this, but maybe a person becomes accustomed to it.
The needlework covering the chairs was stunning.
The KIng’s Bedchamber, just as the sign says. Tapestries lined the walls, and the ceiling was decorated with plaster and painted artworks.
The plaster work had amazing detail.
In this chamber occupied by Queen Victoria, you now see the Lion and the Unicorn representing Scotland and England. I couldn’t make out the Irish harp on the shield, but it should be there. Most of the rooms have ropes delineating where you may walk and where you may leave well enough alone, thank you. I couldn’t go close enough to look for the harp(s).
The Great Gallery, filled with portraits of kings, queens, and heroes past.

When Bonnie Prince Charlie returned to claim Scotland’s throne for his father in 1745, he stayed at the Holyroodhouse Palace for six weeks. During this brief time, the Great Gallery was used to host the Scottish lords and clan leaders with food, music, and other entertainment. Prince Charles then went on to the Battle of Culloden, which he lost, and with it was lost the dream of a Stuart Restoration. Prince Charles escaped to Europe, where he and his father lived in exile the rest of their days. (Recently, I read where an heir to the throne, descended from Bonnie Prince Charlie, has been identified and confirmed through DNA analysis. He did not, however, indicate any plans to raise an army.)

Prince Charles Edward Stuart

At the far end of the Great Gallery, visitors pass into the earlier days of Stuarts’ reign. There are artefacts from the life of Prince Charles, but one quickly passes these and goes up the steep, narrow, winding staircase to the upper floor, where Mary, Queen of Scots, had her royal chambers. It was here that she lived from 1561 until 1567.

The stairway up to the Queen’s chambers. At the top was a very low doorway. I bumped my head because I was watching the steps. Queen Mary, I learned, grew to be six feet tall. I don’t know how she tolerated such a low door way.

The northwest tower reflects the 16th century desire for a fortified residence, but the rooms that Mary used were quite comfortable. Her bedchamber had oak panelling on the ceiling and tapestries on the wall. Her private supper room was very small. It was here that her secretary, the Italian David Riccio (or Rizzio) was murdered by Lord Darnley and his supporters. Riccio was stabbed 56 times.

Mary’s private dining room. I stood in the doorway to take this photo, to give you an idea of how small it is. This is where David Riccio was killed in 1566. Mary was pregnant at the time with her son who would become James I of Scotland, and James VI of England, in 1603.
Queen Mary’s bedchamber (and the low doorway in the background.)
Mary, Queen of Scots
Lord Darnley and the young James, destined to be King James I of Scotland, and then also King James VI of England.
David Riccio, whose grave was moved to Canongate Kirk.

In the outer chamber, now filled with displays of jewellery and artefacts, Mary received visitors, often including John Knox. The devoutly Roman Catholic Queen Mary and the equally devout Calvinist John Knox had lively debates about their religious beliefs. Too bad their tolerance was not emulated by others of their generation.

As you exit Holyrood Palace, you enter what were once Holyrood Abbey gardens. As for the Abbey itself, only ruins remain, and just the nave, at that. In the 13th century, the Abbey Church could hold a thousand worshipers for mass. It was 250 feet (76 meters) long, with high vaulted ceilings, huge stained glass windows, gilded wood, and painted stonework. Large landholdings provided financial support for the Abbey.

Holyroodhouse served the secular world as well. It was a place where parliaments and councils were held, beginning with Robert the Bruce in 1327. From that meeting came the Treaty of Edinburgh-Northampton that brought peace between Scotland and England, at least, temporarily. James II was born, married, crowned, and buried at Holyrood. In 1469, James III and Margaret of Denmark were married here. In 1503, Margaret Tudor (sister of Henry VIII) and James IV of Scotland were married. It was this union of Tudor and Stuart that resulted in the Union of the Crowns of Scotland and England. It made Mary I, Queen of Scots, and Elizabeth I, Queen of England, first cousins, and so when Elizabeth died without an heir, Mary’s son, James, became King of England as well as Scotland. Charles I, a Stuart king, was the last coronation at Holyroodhouse.

Within the Abbey grounds were a large octagonal chapter house, dormitories, a refectory, and cloisters. These were surrounded by gardens, providing food and medicinal herbs. Royal guests stayed in houses within the Abbey complex. The foundations of these other buildings and the larger church can be found in places around the palace gardens.

The Abbey suffered during the reign of Henry VIII, as he wrestled control away from the Pope, and the Abbey was abandoned altogether after the Protestant Reformation (1560 AD) when the eastern parts were demolished, leaving just the nave, which remains today. The chronology was not clear. It seems the church became Catholic again, because the church was attacked by Protestant citizens in 1688, destroying most of the interior and breaking open the tombs. The formerly magnificent building became a “romantic ruin,” inspiring artists over the centuries.

The Holyroodhouse church ruin. Holyrood Palace is on the left.

From the back of Holyrood Palace, there is a great view of “Arthur’s Seat,” a high bluff that is a popular place to climb for views of Edinburgh.

Arthur’s Seat, viewed from the back of Holyrood Palace.

Edinburgh Walkabout

At the western end of the “Royal Mile,” and a little beyond, sits the Parish Church of St. Cuthbert, the oldest Christian site in Edinburgh. The church’s congregation states in its history that the church was founded in 670 A.D. by St. Cuthbert himself (pre-sainthood, of course.) Other histories are more vague, and simply say the 7th century, during or not long after the life of the saint. The church has been through several iterations, and the original building survives only as part of the foundation of the current building, built in 1894.

The first official mention, however, is in the records of King David I, when he granted the church building to the Holyrood Abbey. (There was only the Catholic Church in that era.) The area served by this church used to be quite large, with several “chapels of ease,” meaning other small churches or chapels in the parish. But after the 1560 Reformation, it became a Protestant church, and was known as the West Kirk. After the Restoration came in 1660, the West Kirk’s congregation was loyal to the Covenanters, and has remained part of the Church of Scotland.

In one of the iterations of the building, in 1773, some bones and a leaden urn were found inside a leaden coffin. The urn contained an embalmed human heart, believed to be the heart of a crusader, that had been returned to his family from the Holy Land. There was no indication in the source that anything was done with the bones or heart, so presumably, they were placed again in the new church building.

I was visiting the church grounds – the church was not open due to the pandemic – and there were a lot of people walking around. The Princes Streets gardens are quite popular at the noon hour. Residents of Edinburgh enjoy their parks and squares, and don’t give them up even in a light rain.

St. Cuthbert’s Church sits at the Castle end of the Princes Street Gardens. Agatha Christie was married here on September 11, 1930, in the chapel to her second husband, Max Mallowan.

The Scott Monument is also on Princes Street, about midway along the stretch of city between Edinburgh Castle and Holyrood Palace known as the Royal Mile. It is the largest monument to a writer in the world. Scott was born and raised in Edinburgh, and spent some of his youth collecting folk tales from “the Borders,” an area to the south of Edinburgh.

Contemporaries of Scott’s considered these tales too lowly to dignify by writing them down, but Scott recorded them, and used these as inspiration for his poetry and romantic novels, the first such novel being “Waverley,” which he published anonymously in 1814. It was a new genre – the historical romance novel.

Sir Walter Scott (1771 – 1832) is important to Scots and Scotland because he raised the image of Scotland at a time when Scots were considered dangerous by many in England, the Scottish Enlightenment notwithstanding. Gaelic had been outlawed in 1616, and tartans and bagpipes in 1746, after the Battle of Culloden, led by Bonnie Prince Charlie, who claimed to be the rightful king of Scotland. It was a clear effort to suppress Scottish culture. Scott orchestrated the first visit by a British monarch in 171 years, and helped reinstate the language, dress, and music of the Highlands.

The monument is two hundred feet tall. Construction was begun in 1840, and the edifice was inaugurated in 1846. The sculpture of Scott and his hound, Maida, is made of a single, 30 ton piece of Carrara marble, created by Sir John Steele. There are 287 steps, divided by four levels (where you can stop and rest.) On one level, there is a museum, which was closed during my visit, in fact right now, no one can go inside at all.

Sir Walter Scott ponders life from the memorial built in his honor,
…the Sir Walter Scott Memorial,
…visible across most of Edinburgh.

While I loved Edinburgh, one of the disappointments of my visit was that many of the smaller museums were closed and did not anticipate opening again until 2021. The Sir Walter Scott Memorial museum and the Writer’s Museum, featuring Sir Walter Scott, Robert Burns, and Robert Louis Stevenson, were closed. The other disappointment throughout Scotland was the lack of music; there were no venues playing traditional music except for the occasional lone piper.

Lone piper on Johnstone Terrace. “The Pipes” were used to call men to fight, as referenced in the song, “Danny Boy.”

One country’s fight for freedom was another country’s rebellion. The India Cross, pictured below, is placed near Edinburgh Castle. It honors the “78th Regiment of Foot,” the Ross-shire Buffs, who died during the “Indian Rebellion.”

Sir Walter Scott helped raise the image of Scotland, but the Scottish Enlightenment was furthered by a host of people you’ve heard of, David Hume and Adam Smith among them, earning them each a statue along the Royal Mile.

Hume established himself with his first two books, “A Treatise of Human Nature,” 1739, and “An Enquiry Concerning Human Understanding,” 1748.
Adam Smith’s statue, in front of St. Giles’ Cathedral.

Lesser known currently, but widely read in his day, was the poet Robert Fergusson. This statue of him stands in front of the Canongate Kirk, an unassuming church near Holyrood Palace. Robert Fergusson is buried here. Robert Burns himself paid for the tombstone, and then Robert Louis Stevenson (“Treasure Island”) himself was going to pay for the repair and renovation of that tombstone. In honour of the “three Roberts,” the Saltire Society had Stevenson’s words inscribed on the tombstone as part of the repair. (The Saltire Society was founded in 1936 to preserve Scottish culture and to encourage creativity.)

Robert Fergusson, Scottish poet of the

The Canongate Kirk was ordered built by King James VII (James II in England) in 1688. His idea was to create a chapel for the Order of the Thistle. The arms of King James were put above the door originally, but by the time the building was finished, those arms were replaced by the arms of King William III of Orange, according to the parish history. Politics moved at a speed faster than construction.

The current arms, near the top of the building, are of Great Britain, that is, England and Scotland. The plaque above the doorway indicates that the arms just above it belong to King James VII, the monarch who began construction.

The Canongate Kirk, originally adjacent to the Holyrood Palace grounds, is still very near – the palace grounds have shrunk some.

The Canongate Kirk is where Adam Smith (1723 – 1790) is buried. The plaque marking his grave notes that he was the author of the “Theory of Moral Sentiments” and the “Wealth of Nations.” The slab below is engraved with one of his more famous quotes, “The property which every man has in his own labor, as it is the original foundation of all other property, so it is the most sacred and inviolable.”

Adam Smith was an economist, author, and philosopher, educated at Oxford University, Balliol College, University of Edinburgh, and University of Glasgow, and considered the “Father of Economics,” or of capitalism, depending on your perspective.

One more person is buried here in Canongate Kirkyard whose name you might remember from the movie about Mary, Queen of Scots, with Vanessa Redgrave: David Riccio. Riccio was an Italian diplomat who became Queen Mary’s secretary. Mary’s husband, Lord Darnley, became jealous of Riccio, believing that she favored Riccio over Lord Darnley. In 1566, a group of men murdered Riccio while he dined with the pregnant Queen, stabbing him repeatedly. In the movie, it was a ghastly scene, with Riccio crawling on the floor under the table, wounded, trying to escape. He was initially buried at Holyrood Abbey, but was later moved to Canongate Kirkyard.

A restaurant, capitalising on historical sympathies, posts this colorful statue of “Bonnie Prince Charlie” at their door. Was Bonnie Prince Charlie a real person?

The Stuarts ruled Scotland for around three hundred years. Robert the Bruce was a legendary leader in Scotland, though not a “king” in our modern definition of such. His son, Robert II, was the “High Steward” of Scotland, for King David II, his half-uncle, and succeeded David in 1371. Robert still carried the title “Steward,” which morphed into “Stewart” and “Stuart” over the next couple of generations as surnames came into use. The dynasty had remarkable longevity, despite the challenges of circumstance. James II became king at age 6; James III was dethroned by his son, James IV; James V inherited his throne at 17 months of age. Mary, Queen of Scots, was a Stuart, and became Queen while still an infant. Regents for the minors came and went, but the dynasty continued.

Scotland was joined with England when Mary (the one beheaded by Queen Elizabeth I of England,) Queen of Scot’s son, James VI of Scotland, became also James I of England in 1603 after Elizabeth I died without an heir. James I’s son, Charles I, was beheaded by Cromwell and the Glorious Revolution. After Cromwell’s death, Charles II, Charles I’s son, was invited to return. His successor, James II (VII of Scotland,) Charles II’s brother, although Protestant, tried to impose an Anglican prayer book on the Church of Scotland, which followed an austere Calvinist practice, and it was the final straw.

Mary, James II’s daughter from his first marriage, and her husband, William of Orange, both Protestants, were invited to assume the throne. William invaded in 1688, and Mary was declared Queen by Parliament in 1689, and they became King William III and Queen Mary (who bought a local mansion and created Kensington Palace.) They were succeeded by James II’s second daughter and Mary’s sister, Queen Anne, another Protestant, who died childless.

After James II’s first wife had died, but before he was deposed, James married Mary of Modena, a Catholic. They had a son, James Francis Edward, who was raised as a Catholic. When this James gained his age, he declared that, as James II’s son, he was the rightful heir to the thrones of England, Scotland, and, by this time, Ireland, as well, rather than George I of the House of Hanover, who Parliament had declared heir to the crown of Great Britain.

James Francis Edward’s claim was recognized as legitimate by Louis XIV of France, the King of Spain, and the Pope. James Francis had supporters, and not just Catholics. This was an age that still believed in the divine right of kings, and there were those who agreed that James should be king.

Parliament, however, had made their choice by rejecting his father’s continued rule and rejecting a Catholic successor, James Francis Edward, and by inviting William and Mary to accept the throne of Great Britain. Parliament passed the Settlement Act in 1701, which made it law that only a Protestant could succeed to the British throne. There was no interest in having the Catholic James Francis assume the throne, thus ending the Stuart dynasty.

Nevertheless, in 1715, James and his supporters attempted to regain the throne. This uprising became known as “The Fifteen.” James was disappointed by the too-weak support, and returned to France, where Louis XIV had been supporting him. However, Louis had died by this time, and James was no longer welcome. He went to Rome, where Pope Clement XI gave him a palace and an annuity. James married Maria Clementina Sobieska, and had a son, Charles Edward Stuart, born 1720. James Francis Edward became known as “the Old Pretender,” and Charles as “the Young Pretender.”

This Charles also became known as “Bonnie Prince Charlie.” He had many supporters, known as Jacobites, “Jacob” being the Latin form of “James,” after his father. There was an attempt to win the throne for Bonnie Prince Charlie in 1745, an attempt that was stronger than the Fifteen, but not strong enough to succeed. This attempt became known as “the Forty-five.” Bonnie Prince Charlie barely escaped with his life – he escaped, disguised as a woman servant, and was rowed out from the Isle of Skye to a small island, where he was rescued. It was the end of the Jacobite Restoration attempts. Ultimately, it was the friction caused by the Reformation, Protestant v. Catholic, the was the final undoing of the Stuart dynasty. On the Isle of Skye, the woman who rowed Charles to safety is buried in Killiemuir Cemetery, Flora MacDonald.

The Princes Street Gardens are filled with flourishes of decoration, mostly dating from the Victorian era.

One of the railings in the Princes Street Gardens.
A fountain in the Princes Street Gardens
I went back to the fountain on a different day, and found workmen putting up fencing all around it. They were going to do some repairs according to the man I asked. The result was that I could take photos by using my telephoto lens, shooting through the fencing, or I could take photos further back, which would include the very utilitarian fencing. I chose to try to eliminate the fencing, but the result was less than satisfactory. Though taken on the same day, the difference in light in the photos is due to the angle I had to strike to avoid the fencing.
“The Witches’ Well” commemorates the people, mostly women, who were executed near this spot on the esplanade of Edinburgh Castle. Execution was by strangulation or burning at the stake. Not a proud chapter in Scottish history.
Edinburgh in the rain, beautiful all the while. This happened frequently while I was there.
The University of Edinburgh School of Divinity. There is a statue of John Knox in the courtyard, but the school is closed because of the pandemic, and the courtyard gate was locked.
A memorial in the Princes Gardens to those killed during WWI
“If it be Life that waits, I shall live forever unconquered; If Death, I shall die at last, strong in my pride and free.”
The large gardens had several beds with thistles, the Scottish national flower.

It would take a long time to explore Edinburgh thoroughly. Like so many places I have visited, I hope someday I can return – I may need another lifetime….

Royal Yacht Britannia

Rule, Britannia! Britannia rule the waves….”

The building of the Royal Yacht Britannia was commissioned by the father of Queen Elizabeth II, His Majesty King George VI. Sadly, he died before it was finished.

It was Queen Elizabeth II who smashed the bottle of wine to christen the ship: “I name this ship Britannia. I wish success to her and all who sail in her.” The Queen then pressed the button at the Clydebank shipyard of John Brown & Company to launch the yacht, ship no. 691, into the Clyde River.

For tourists, there is an upper level entry to the yacht, a bridge that connects the onshore display area to the ship. Subsequent decks are boarded by crossing similar bridges.
The bridge.

The bridge provides sight and information from the gauges, and it’s the place where orders about steerage are generated, but the yacht is actually steered from the wheelhouse, which is below the bridge. That’s because the bridge is visible to other ships and therefore more vulnerable to attack. The process is: orders from the bridge about direction and speed to the wheelhouse, and then instructions from the wheelhouse to the engine room regarding speed.

The ship’s wheel on Britannia came from a racing yacht that was built for the Prince of Wales (son of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert, later King Edward VII) in 1893. After he died, the yacht went to George V.

The captain’s quarters were near the bridge and looked very comfortable.

The captains of the royal yachts were always admirals, right up until 1995. The last admiral-captain of the Britannia was Sir Robert Woodard, KCVO. From 1995 until 1997’s final voyage, Commodore Anthony Morrow, CVO, served as captain.

The Captain’s personal quarters.
The ship’s compass.

The ship’s compass is carved from a solid piece of mahogany, and is one of two identical compasses. The other is in Greenwich, in the National Maritime Museum. The pair of compasses began life on the “Royal George” (1817,) then were moved to the “Victoria and Albert” (1855,) and to each subsequent royal yacht, until the Britannia, when they were separated.

View onto the front deck. The “Sun Lounge” looks out onto this deck.
A girl, considering whether or not to step up and see if her head would fit in the bell. Yes, it did.
The ship’s bell for the Royal Yacht Britannia.
The Sun Lounge.
Sailors were given a daily ration of rum from the early days at sea until sometime in the 20th century. The container resided in the Sun Lounge.

By tradition, the royal yacht was a “floating palace,” a family home for the royal family, with friendly faces, family photos, and the rooms used by the family were decorated accordingly. Enormous effort was made to allow the family, Queen Elizabeth and Prince Phillip especially, to feel at home on the ship, such as bringing on Malvern water for tea. The crew, although members of the Royal Navy, were called by their first names while serving on the Britannia.

The Queen’s bedroom.
The Queen’s study
The Duke’s bedroom, which connected to the Queen’s.
Prince Phillip’s study
The “Fam”: Prince Phillip, Prince Edward, the Queen, Princess Anne, Prince Andrew, and Prince Charles.

Daily routine for the Queen included briefings from the Press Secretary and reviewing with the Queen’s Personal Secretary the contents of the government boxes sent daily.

Because of who they were, the ship was also the “Royal Court afloat,” so it had to be equipped for more formal functions. Leaders of other countries were sometimes hosted on board as a state visit. Such an event meant that about five tonnes of luggage (including the royal jewels) had to be brought on board, plus accommodating up to forty-five members of the Royal Household, such as valets, dressers, clerks, right up to, and including, the Press Secretary and the Surgeon.

The formal dining room. (White tie.)

Below is the drawing room, used for before dinner drinks and after-dinner activities, such as games or music, by the family, and for gathering for more formal occasions during a state visit.

The stairway connecting the dining room and drawing room to the private rooms.
The “butler’s pantry” that supported the Royal Family and state occasions on the Britannia.
The silver collection, a separate, locked room from the Butler’s Pantry.

The ship itself required twenty officers and two hundred twenty yachtsmen. “Daily Orders” were prepared and printed each day that had that day’s scheduled activities, times, and other details on them. Any last minute changes were posted on the “Red Hot Noticeboards” around the ship. In addition to being called by their first names, orders were given with hand signals in order to maintain a quiet, home-like atmosphere when the Royals were on board. Serving on the Britannia was so unique that an association of “Yotties” was founded in 1989 for all who had served from January, 1954, through December, 1997.

The crew functioned on an established hierarchy, and each group had their own mess, dining room, and quarters assigned to them. The decorations were done accordingly, with the officers ranking highest.

Officers’ mess.
Officers’ dining room.
This is a salt cellar, believe it or not. That’s all one piece, although it opened at a place underneath the figure supporting the ship. You can see it if you look closely. The monkey was hanging on it for reasons unknown, but was not part of the gift. The fireplace is a reflection of the installation on the opposite wall. I didn’t rank high enough to adjust the lighting.
A button from the uniform of Admiral Nelson.

I have probably gotten these out of order, so please forgive this landlubber if I have.

Petty Officers’ and Sargeants‘ mess.
Warrant Officers’ and CPOs’ mess.
Warrant Officers’ and CPOs’ quarters.
The surgery
Laundry facilities – pressing.

The laundry room is huge, and seemed large for the yacht, even this family’s yacht. And it was. It was made so large because the yacht was made to be convertible to a hospital ship if there was a war or other large military operation involving casualties, and additional capacity was needed. It was launched in 1953, so, luckily, the need never arose while the yacht was under sail.

Although Britannia never served as a war-time hospital, in 1986, the Queen did send her to rescue British nationals and other persons who were suddenly trapped in the middle of an uprising in Aden, some of whom were injured. Over 1,000 people were rescued from hotels that were being shelled. As a non-military ship, Britannia could enter the close waters without increasing tension in an already tense area or attracting fire.

The launch for smaller activities.
This is the formal boarding steps and ramp.
This is not the Queen’s actual Rolls Royce, but a similar model that was donated. There was a specific spot on the upper deck where vehicles for the Queen were stowed. It was a very tight fit.
On December 11, 1997, at precisely one minute past three in the afternoon, the Queen was piped ashore for the final time from Britain’s last Royal Yacht.
I ended my tour with tea on board the yacht, of course.

Close Calling in Edinburgh

Edinburgh’s Old Town is riddled with small alleys, singly called “a close,” too narrow for vehicles, that can take pedestrians from one street to another. Sometimes they are a direct route, sometimes they bring you to an open area, a square, or small plaza, and then out the other side through another close, and sometimes they bring you to a courtyard, but you have to go out the same way you came in. Sometimes they are fairly level, sometimes they have steps, sometimes a lot of steps. It just depends.

“The Real Mary King’s Close” is a tour worth taking if you have the opportunity. It is mainly underground, and it is designed to show you how the not-well-off people in Edinburgh lived during the 1600s and The Plague. It wasn’t pretty.

The waiting area for the Mary King’s Close tour. We descended a couple of flights from inside the building to reach the rooms we toured.

Edinburgh of the 1600s had become terribly overcrowded as people moved to the city, but the city walls held them in. Houses had no room to spread out, so they spread up, sometimes as high as eight stories. Existing houses were absorbed into the new houses as foundations, or simply ground floors. The closes themselves were only a few meters wide – with the tall buildings on either side, daylight rarely made its way in.

There was no indoor plumbing. People used buckets for sewage, which was then dumped into the gutters. The people living on the bottom floors had to live with open sewers outside their doors. Obviously, the higher floors were most desirable – they had windows, after all – and those went to people with some money. The ground floors went to the poorest, who lived there with few windows (and sometimes none,) the sewers, and the occasional cow living in the next room.

And then, 1644 rolled around and brought the plague with it. The rich left the city, but the poor had nowhere to go. Edinburgh lost almost half of its population. Gruesome stories circulated of people being locked into the close, left to die of the plague, but the reality was that they were quarantined and food and water was brought to them. Mary King’s Close was abandoned by 1645.

Our guide, dressed in period costume of the 1600s – 1700s, talked about the plague itself, carried by the flea-infested rats, and the different ways it developed. He also talked about Mary King. She was a widow and therefore able to own property. She established herself as a fabric merchant, and became a person of local prominence, which is why the name Mary King’s Close. The tour is called “The Real Mary King’s Close” because the developers of the tour wanted to emphasize that Mary King was a real person in 17th century Edinburgh, not a made-up character.

Eventually, people moved back in and were living there when city authorities decided to build a new Royal Exchange in order to stay competitive for business, which the New Town was threatening. (“New Town” was close by, more of a neighborhood name than a new city. Things in Edinburgh are still identified by these terms. As the city grew, new area names were added.) The location they wanted was across from the St. Giles Cathedral, where Mary King’s Close is located. They tore down the upper floors and used the lower floors as foundation, where people continued to live and work – people ran businesses from these low-ceilinged rooms.

The last to leave, in 1902, was a saw maker, Mr. Chesney. He and his business were forced out when the Royal Exchange Building, which had become City offices, was extended, and the last buildings were sealed off. These buildings had survived because of the steep grade that they had been built on – as upper floors were developed, the lower floors still had access to the close.

The tour was a couple of hours. To observe the social distancing requirements, there were letters A, B, C, and D painted in specific places in the rooms we visited so that we had two meters separating us. Again, the distance meant that getting to know others on the tours wasn’t possible. Also, photographs are not allowed because we were walking through the foundations of the government buildings above.

As I emerged after the tour, I was standing across from St. Giles Cathedral, blinking into the daylight.

St. Giles Cathedral, with its “crown dome.”

Edinburgh’s St. Giles’ Cathedral was founded in the 12th century, but this building was begun in the 1400s and completed in the 1600s, although significant changes were made in the 20th century. The church began as a Catholic church, but became part of the Church of Scotland in 1559 during the Reformation. John Knox was its minister, and is buried in the church, along with other notables.

St. Giles Cathedral from across Parliament Square.
Lady Stair’s Close led into a small courtyard. As the sign attests, Robert Burns lived here for a while.
St. Columba’s Free Church is at the top of a small alley leading to Victoria Terrace, overlooking Victoria Street. The street from where I took this photo is Johnston Terrace.
The Quaker Meeting House was on the road named Upper Bow Street between St. Columba’s and Victoria Terrace.
Overlooking Victoria Street from Victoria Terrace, The Great Wizard store is in the middle, across the street, in red.
I had lunch at Hanam’s Shisha Terrace, a shawarma sandwich, which brought back memories. Ahmed is from Syria. He says that there is a thriving Syrian community and they have felt very welcome. The biggest adjustment has been the weather.
This isn’t technically a close, but it feels like it. It leads to a restaurant, famous primarily for its patrons, James Boswell and Dr. Samuel Johnson.
The Literary Pub Tour ended at a pub in this close. You can see the entry toward the back of the photo. Behind me are steps that lead to the street below. Like much of Edinburgh, it’s on a hill.
The Anchor Close

Ah, the Anchor Close. Anchor Close is named for a tavern that used to be here, which was best known for hosting the “Chochallan Fencibles,” an 18th Century drinking club. The drinks fueled the intellectual debate, or so the guides would have you believe. Maybe it’s so: the club was founded by William Smellie, who edited the first edition of the Encyclopedia Britannica. Intellectual debates or not, I’m sure the drinks fueled the volume. And, of course, Robert Burns was a member.

Looking down the Anchor Close, there’s not much activity now, but it connects Cockburn Street and High Street.
Fisher’s Close, also in Old Town, but considered private.

The inscription above and the plaque pictured below are the same place. David Hume lived here in 1751. He was an economist and philosopher, a major figure of the Scottish Enlightenment. Two of his best known works are “A Treatise of Human Nature” (1740) and “An Enquiry into Human Understanding” (1748). He challenged the then-current beliefs, and was considered a radical. “I have written on all sorts of subjects,” he wrote, “yet I have no enemies, except all the Whigs, all the Tories, and all the Christians.”

Riddle’s Close is even with the street face on Lawnmarket Street, but when you walk into the short tunnel, you are underneath a building constructed in 1727. Emerging from the short tunnel, you are in a courtyard that has been there since 1587, and used to be the front building. There is yet another courtyard to be found behind that, but there was no additional date given for that, so it may be contemporary to the 1587 buildings.

James VI attended two banquets here, both honoring Queen Anne of Denmark’s brother, Ulric, Duke of Holstein. Queen Anne was James’ wife, and Ulric was the envoy of the Holy Roman Empire. This was in 1598, before Hume’s time, and a few years before James VI of Scotland became James I of England (1603.) The house belonged to a wealthy merchant in Edinburgh. It’s been restored and is now available for hosting events, if you are so inclined.

A curious small door in the courtyard.
An entry to the building in the 1587 courtyard.
The entry to yet another courtyard (and a sign advertising the space for rent), but it seems to be also from 1587.

Riddle’s Close is notable for another visitor as well. “Fringe Festivals” began in Edinburgh, and have become widely known. They are artistic events, mostly performance arts, organized outside of traditional performance organizations. Riddle’s Court became a Fringe venue in the 1950s, and this is where Maggie Smith gave her first public performance. The rest, as they say, is history.

A person could spend the better part of a month exploring the collection of closes that are part of Old Town, and discovering their history. Someday, maybe.

Edinburgh Casts Its Spell

I rode the LNER train from London to Edinburgh, almost five hours. The United Kingdom does a great job with their trains. They are pleasant to ride and have useful schedules, even now, during the pandemic. Passengers had to scan their tickets in order to enter the boarding area, so no conductors came around to check tickets. There were a few attendants in the area, available for any issues that might arise – confusion over seats or luggage or such.

First class car on the LNER in socially-distant times. There were a few other people, but they were invisible to me except when they moved around.

I relaxed in my seat as scenes of England and Scotland moved past my socially-distanced window, leaving the suburbs of London, stopping at large villages, and passing rural scenery that looked “just like the pictures.”

Open fields and the North Sea near Newcastle upon Tyne
Arriving at Waverley Station, which is named for a novel written by Sir Walter Scott, though he never formally put his name to this novel. And, as one of the station’s signs pointed out, it’s the only station in the world named after a novel.

I had reserved an AirBnB centrally located in Old Town. I arrived to find there was a mix-up, and my place already had a resident. Enterprising entrepreneurs have made a business of managing multiple vacation rentals through AirBnB, so there were options available. I was reassigned to a place on Simpson Loan, next to the University of Edinburgh, an upgrade from the place I had reserved, so no complaint about that. On a map, it looked to be a longer walk to visit places, but, as I have learned, Old Town is very compact and easily walked for most people. Being in a university area had its benefits, too, as there were several coffee places and a well-stocked Sainsbury’s (grocery,) to boot. My apartment overlooked an open, grassy area belonging to the building next door, and both buildings were adjacent to “the Meadows,” a large park with paths for bikes and pedestrians and playing fields for games of soccer or rugby.

The next morning, I followed a path, the Middle Meadow Walk, that led from the Meadows toward “the Royal Mile.” Along the path were a couple of old logs, and a sign. The sign said that these logs were water pipes.

Hard to believe in the middle of this rainy summer, but water in old Edinburgh was sometimes a problem. Maybe dry summers were more frequent then, because the sign said that the “draw-wells were frequently inadequate during dry summers.” People walked a long way out of town to get water. To remedy this, a reservoir was built at the top of Castlehill, and water was fed from there to various parts of Old Town (and later, New Town,) by way of underground pipes.

The first pipes were made of lead (!), but they became too expensive, they were heavy and hard to work with and maintain, so they were replaced by wooden pipes. Elm trees were used because they did not absorb much of the water. The logs were hollowed lengthwise with an auger, and then sharpened at one end to allow a tight fit when put together. By 1790, however, the wooden pipes were replaced by cast iron pipes, piping the water to a dozen masonry well-heads, five of which survive around Old Town, such as the one in Greenmarket.

Even this improvement was not perfect. People had to queue for their turn to get their daily water, sometimes late into the night. Well-off citizens would hire a “water caddy” to get a place in line for them and wait for a turn. Waiting at the well ended by 1822, when water was piped directly into the houses.

McSorleys along Forrest Road

Middle Meadow Walk ended when it became Forrest Road, which carried car traffic and was lined with small shops. At the juncture of Forrest Road and Candlemakers Row, stands an old church, now known as “Bedlam Theatre,” closed for the time being because of the pandemic prohibition of crowded venues.

Bedlam Theatre

Across the intersection from the Bedlam is a statue of a small dog called “Greyfriars’ Bobby.”

The view from the front of Bedlam Theatre, forward along George IV Bridge Road. The dome belongs to the Museum on the Mound, currently closed. Greyfriars’ Bobby is in the lower left corner.

According to local record, Greyfriars’ Bobby, a small dog, followed the remains of his master to the Greyfriars Kirkyard (“kirk” being the Scottish word for church) and stayed. The statue was donated, and pays tribute to the dog’s “affectionate fidelity,” lasting from 1858 to 1872, when the dog passed away.

Greyfriars Bobby (Great name for a pub, don’t you think? Oh, look….)

The entrance to Greyfriars Kirk was next to the Greyfriars Bobby pub. I have always enjoyed a good graveyard, during the day time, at least, and the gate was open.

The graveyard has a Who’s Who list, but it turned out there were celebrities not listed.

Many of my ancestors came from Scotland – Sinclairs, Alexanders, Johnstons, Kennons, and others – so I was on the lookout for familiar names. I didn’t find any that belonged to my family, but I found a few that appeared in the Harry Potter stories – McGonagall, Moody, Erskin. I thought it was an interesting coincidence, but when two young men stopped to ask me if I had seen the Tom Riddle headstone, I learned that J.K. Rowling apparently often walked through this particular kirkyard, so that the names were not just a coincidence. I wasn’t much help to the two looking for Riddle. I hadn’t seen Tom Riddle, but I was able to tell them where it wasn’t, because I had walked up and down the rows behind me, quite methodically.

Of course, from then on, I looked for Harry Potter names as well as my family names. For family, all I found was one man whose middle name was Sinclair. There were lots of given names “Alexander,” but none whose surname was Alexander, Johnston, nor anything else sounding familiar. For my family, the kirkyard was a bust, but I finally did find Tom Riddle. It was in the farthest corner, and it was “Thomas Riddell.” His son, also Thomas Riddell, was there, too. For an author making up a plot, it’s not a far stretch to reach “Tom Riddle,” a more mysterious iteration.

“Tom Riddle”

There were other things about the Greyfriars Kirkyard that were notable, too. One more “Harry Potter” thing, the inspiration for Hogwarts, supposedly: the George Hariot School. It can be seen from the back gate of the kirkyard.

George Hariot School, as seen from Greyfriars Kirkyard’s back gate.

The Greyfriars Kirkyard was also the location of the Covenanters’ Prison, rather ironic since the church was where the Covenant was signed, February 28, 1638, and one of the co-authors is buried there.

The gate into the section that became the Covenanters’ Prison. The tombs and memorials were not there at the time.

Religion and politics do not mix well, no matter what the century, it seems.

John Knox led the Scottish Reformation in 1560, based on the teachings of John Calvin. Mary I (Mary, Queen of Scots) disapproved because she was Catholic, but did not actively suppress the Reformation. When James VI gained the throne, and then the English throne in 1603 as James I, he was convinced that Presbyterianism was incompatible with monarchy. “No bishop, no king” was his belief, but rather than war, he used diplomacy. By the time he died in 1625, the Church of Scotland had bishops.

Charles I (later beheaded by Oliver Cromwell and his followers) was less diplomatic, and tried to force the Prayer Book of 1637, a slightly modified version of the Anglican Book of Common Prayer, on the Church of Scotland. It caused riots, and precipitated the National Covenant, which protested the new prayer book and other liturgical innovations, setting those who signed the National Covenant in opposition to Charles I.

A thousand of those signers were put into the Covenanters’ Prison in the Greyfriars Kirkyard, defeated by Government forces at the Battle of Bothwell Brig. They were held for more than four months with no shelter, and only 4 ounces of bread per day.

Some prisoners died, some were tried for treason and executed, some escaped, and some were freed after signing a bond of loyalty to the Crown. Those who were persecuted and died under Charles I are memorialized by the Martyrs’ Memorial on the wall of the Kirkyard, and in the Greenmarket. In the longer arc of time, although the Covenanters lost the Battle of Bothwell Brig, they won the war.

Greyfriars’ Kirk

After spending a couple of hours in the kirkyard, I continued walking along the main road, George IV Bridge Road. I passed The Elephant House, which had a sign in the window claiming it was the “Birthplace of Harry Potter.” It’s a cafe/coffee house, so I presume that means that J.K. Rowling spent time in there, writing her stories. They didn’t specify, nor was there anyone to ask – they were closed for the pandemic.

The red Elephant House

Further up the road, there was a road that turned downhill, lined with little shops, curving around as it wound downward. I spotted the small shops, and decided to explore.

Victoria Street

It was Victoria Street. Merchants in Victoria Street are happy to proclaim that this street inspired “Diagon Alley” in the Harry Potter stories. There are even a couple of places that claim to have inspired specific stores in Diagon Alley. I was beginning to think that Edinburgh had developed their own version of “Washington slept here.”

This store didn’t claim to be part of the Harry Potter stories, it simply sold Harry Potter merchandise exclusively, floor to ceiling.
Not all merchants were magical, unless you count fine tailoring, which works magic of its own.

Victoria Street morphs into Bow Street as it passes the curve, and ends in Grassmarket, where people once bought and sold horses and cows – Cowgate Street is adjacent to Grassmarket on the far side. Now, the grass is gone, and it’s covered in cobblestone, edged with pubs, cafes, and a couple of clothing stores.

The pubs and restaurants have put as many tables outside as they can, and they were filled. Tables outside don’t have to be as strict, but they are still at a distance of 1 meter. The tables inside are at a 2 meter distancing. People, including tourists, are required to wear face coverings indoors in most places. Obviously, eating establishments can’t require constant coverage, and hence the greater distance when people are in a confined space.

The Beehive Inn (and Pub)

The Bee Hive Inn was where I waited for the “Literary Pub Tour” last Sunday evening. The upstairs of the pub allowed our group to spread out but still hear. The tour consisted of me, a three-person family from Birmingham, England, and two actors, both nice guys.

The two actors, who stated at the outset that they were actors not scholars, were our entertainment, and we had a grand time listening to them argue good-naturedly about the social and anti-social qualities of Sir Walter Scott, Robert Burns, and Robert Louis Stevenson, and reciting from their works. Their clear favorite was Robert Burns, and they performed works in English and in Scottish, which is not Gaelic, but rather English in the strong Scots dialect.

The Martyred Covenanters’ Memorial in Grassmarket.

They were serious about not being scholars. As we walked from Grassmarket to Victoria Street, we passed the monument to the Martyred Covenanters. I asked one of the actors what the Covenant was about, hoping for some history on it, but he didn’t know what it was about, only that the spot was where many were hanged.

We ended at a pub – where else? – and had a glass as we answered some questions about Scott, Burns, and Stevenson, the “older generation,” and J.K. Rowling, part of the “new generation.”

Their scholarship notwithstanding, they were fun, their stories about the authors were humorous, and the family from Birmingham and I had a good time with them. Social distancing was the order of the evening, and the group was small to make that easier. I didn’t get to know the people from Birmingham at all – that kind of traveler collegiality is the victim of social distancing.

The red-nosed Judge

By this time, Old Town Edinburgh had worked its way into my imagination. It is utterly charming – narrow alleys, twisty cobblestone roads, and turreted stone buildings abound. It’s easy to see how Edinburgh added inspiration to J.K. Rowling’s Harry Potter stories. I found myself thinking what life would be like if I was living here.

London in the Time of Nothing Open

I am not complaining. I want to make that clear. I have been to London twice before on more hurried visits with different agendas when everything was open. I had to manoeuvre through crowded crowds of people and their children, for not very satisfying views of well-known sights. I haven’t had that problem on this visit. I expect that it will change soon, perhaps even by the fall, when I will return to London.

The title is a minor exaggeration. There are things open, but they are not tourist sights per se. Cafes, hotels, stores, pubs, and many restaurants are open, so as a visitor it is quite possible to survive, although finding a place to sit down and rest your feet for a few minutes is challenging. Most cafes (and all Starbucks) are takeaway only, and there are no seats available. Some cafes are able to provide “socially distanced” seating, but I’ve only found two – one with partitions and one with enough space for appropriate seating. Even then, their main business was takeaway.

Buses are running, and taxis, and some Tube lines are running, but most of the Tube stations are still closed, and generally, public transportation is discouraged. Fortunately, I am a walker, and so far, I’ve tallied about four miles per day. I know by reading the directional signposts that tell me how far it is to my destination. And, by George, it’s really good for me, right?

My hotel is on Queensborough Terrace, which is lined with structures like this, many of them also small hotels. The odd blocks of white light are reflections from the windows behind me. It’s amazing to me, the things we don’t see until we look at the photo.

The great thing about walking around London is that I can stop whenever I want and look at the buildings. It is easy to become overwhelmed by the incredible decorations – lions, friezes, brickwork and stained glass – it is a serious feast for the eyes. These buildings (below) were all on the same street, on the same block, near Oxford Street.

I took a shopping day on Monday, and walked to Selfridge’s, which is on Oxford Street. It’s a large department store that has changed their business model by sub-leasing parts of their store to other enterprises, such as Topshop, Lululemon, and Sweaty Betty, and the jewelry counters were all sublets. Some parts of the store are still Selfridge’s, I assume, but it was hard to tell. I ended up making several visits during this week.

Opening time queue at Selfridge’s. A member of staff came out just after I snapped this to make sure people were keeping to 2m spacing. We all had hand sanitising at the door.
Someone had a brilliant inspiration in the public works department. Habits are so strong. Even with these reminders, I find myself looking the wrong direction first. The good news is that I always look, which is the main thing. (And, yes, sometimes they say “Look Both Ways.”)
Not far from my hotel.
Passing Paddington Station, one of the few Tube stations open. And my eternally crooked smile.
Not the main campus, but a branch near Paddington Station.
Tuesday morning, I walked to the Sherlock Holmes Museum, near Regents Park. They were closed, but I’d never even been to 221B. As a long-standing fan, it was a necessary stop.
As you might expect, many shops try to capitalise on their Baker Street location.

Hyde Park is huge, and I still haven’t been through all of it. Monday, I had stopped at the Italian Fountains on my way to Selfridge’s. It was sunny then, as you can see. Tuesday, I decided to explore the west area around Kensington Palace.

Hyde Park began as acreage that King Henry VIII acquired in 1536 so that he would have a handy place to hunt deer. It’s not clear when the character changed from hunting ground to park, but it was probably in the 1690s, after King William III and Queen Mary II moved into Kensington Palace.

The palace itself began life as a mansion built in 1605 by Sir George Coppin in the village of Kensington, outside of London. In 1619, it was purchased by Haneage Finch, the 1st Earl of Nottingham, and became known as Nottingham House.

It was when William and Mary ascended the throne in 1689, becoming William III and Mary II, that Nottingham House became Kensington Palace. King William suffered from asthma, and Whitehall Palace, then the royal residence, was located too near the fog and floods of the River Thames, so they looked for a better location. They bought Nottingham House for twenty thousand pounds, and instructed their Surveyor of the King’s Works, Sir Christopher Wren, to expand the mansion.

William and Mary moved into Kensington Palace just prior to Christmas, 1689, and the palace remained the primary royal residence for the next seventy years. Queen Anne added the Orangery (now a restaurant,) and Queen Victoria was born in the palace in 1819. The state apartments were opened as a museum in 1899.

Kensington Palace is owned by the Crown Estate, which makes the palace available to the reigning monarch and her descendants “to use as they wish,” mainly as living quarters. Currently, there are about sixty people living there, notably the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge in a four-story apartment within the palace, but there are other royals, military, courtiers, and staff that live throughout the palace complex.

Approaching Kensington Palace from the Hyde Park side, there is a lovely statue, a tribute to Queen Victoria honoring her fifty years as queen. The plaque notes that the statue is “the work of her daughter,” but doesn’t name her. One source said it was Princess Louise. The tribute was given by Queen Victoria’s “loyal Kensington subjects.”

The east side of the Palace.
The south side. The gate is decorated with birthday wishes for Diana, Princess of Wales.
King William III stands watch along the south side of the palace.

Because the parks are right next to each other, it took a couple of map readings for me to realize that what I was calling “Hyde Park” was actually two entities: Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens. Kensington Gardens is adjacent to Kensington Palace, and extends from the palace to West Carriage Drive, which seems to form the boundary. On the other side is Hyde Park. Kensington Gardens has the Prince Albert Memorial and the Diana Memorial Playground, whereas Hyde Park has Speaker’s Corner and the Princess Diana Memorial Fountain. The two parks have separate park offices, but for the casual user, they are functionally one big park, and it is a very popular place.

The Albert Memorial

Anyone who pays attention to English history knows of Prince Albert of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha, who was married to Queen Victoria in 1840. They had nine children. Prince Albert had an active interest in the arts, science, industry, and commerce, and, with Henry Cole, was instrumental in organizing the “Great Exhibition of 1851,” a showcase of industry and science, the largest of its day. Between May and October of 1851, about six million people visited the exhibit, which was held in the Crystal Palace, built for the occasion.

Prince Albert died in 1861 of typhoid fever, and Queen Victoria had this memorial built for him. The decorations immediately surrounding the golden statue reflect his interests – commerce, science, arts, and industry, and the four corners of the steps symbolize the reach of the British Empire at that time – the continents of Asia, Africa, America, and Europe.

Colonial issues acknowledged, but the memorial is still a beautiful work of art.


And, across from the Albert Memorial, is the Royal Albert Hall. The capacity was originally designed for 8,000, however, reconfigurations brought the number to 12,000. Current safety standards have reduced the number to 5,272. So, still not really known, Beatles notwithstanding.

The Royal Albert Hall

From the Royal Albert Hall, I walked on to Buckingham Palace, passing the Wellington Arch circle on the way, where several memorials have been placed.

The photos above and below commemorate the Royal Artillery Regiment of World War I, unveiled by FM HRH Prince Arthur, Duke of Connaught KG, in 1925.
The Wellington Arch
Originally built as an entrance to Buckingham Palace, it was moved to this spot to become a victory arch proclaiming Wellington’s defeat of Napoleon at Waterloo, 1815. The bronze sculpture depicts the Angel of Peace descending on the Quadriga (four-horse chariot) of War.
Part of the gate at the Wellington Arch
The New Zealand War Memorial, “The Southern Stand,” commemorating the contributions of New Zealand in the First and Second World Wars, dedicated on November 11, 2006.
Outside of Buckingham Palace
The current national emblem used by Queen Elizabeth II displayed on the main gates of Buckingham Palace.

The emblem of the United Kingdom contains imagery dating to about 1200. The three lions came into use during the time of Richard I, the Lionhearted. His father, Henry, incorporated the lions that came from the coat of arms of Eleanor of Aquitaine in France into the lions already in the Plantagenet arms. The Celtic harp in the lower left division symbolized Ireland. After the Republic of Ireland was established, it was retained to symbolize Northern Ireland. The upper right division is the lion of Scotland, a traditional emblem, although their national animal is the Unicorn. The Unicorn occupies an equal place with the English lion because the two countries were joined under James I of England (James VI of Scotland) after the death of Elizabeth I. The coronet-collar and chain on the Unicorn is traditional, and was used even when Scotland was a separate kingdom. Unicorns came from Celtic mythology, symbolizing purity and power, but at the same time, were considered dangerous animals and untameable, and therefore held in check by a chain.

A side gate of Buckingham Palace. There are no changing of the guards ceremonies happening, although they are supposed to start again soon. These guards do get to march around a little, about every 15 minutes.
This is “The Balcony,” where members of the royal family appear on special occasions.
A friendly lion along the wall.
Across the way, officially part of St. James’s Park, is the Queen Victoria Memorial. It is 82 feet high, and built with 2,500 tons of white marble.
The Queen, older now, sits with the sceptre and orb, symbols of the monarch, and seems to be reflecting on her life. I think anyone would agree that she had an extraordinary life during a time of great change.
A floral tribute to the National Health Service on the edge of St. James’s Park.
Buckingham Palace from the footbridge in St. James’s Park

The land for St. James’s Park was acquired in 1531 by Henry VIII, and in 1532 he built St. James’s Palace adjacent to his newly acquired deer park. It has served as the official Royal Court since it was built. Even today, ambassadors present their credentials and are recognized by the Court of St. James.

The pelicans came to live in St. James’s Park in 1667 and seem to have prospered here. The London Ring is in the background. It’s not open currently.

From St. James’s Park, I walked on to Parliament Square.

There is a statue of Abraham Lincoln in front of the Supreme Court.
The Supreme Court

I become fascinated with the details of these buildings. I know that the decorations include figures and images that are significant to the people of the country, but I don’t know who they are. I’m sure somewhere there’s a key to who they are or what they symbolize, and what their place in history was. (The pictures are dark because it had begun to rain.)

The Parliament Building
Big Ben has had scaffolding on it every time I’ve seen it.
Mahatma Gandhi
Winston Churchill
St. Margaret’s Church, the often overlooked neighbor of Westminster Abbey
A closer view of the entry to St. Margaret’s

This church building, consecrated in 1523, is the third built on this site. St. Margaret’s has been the church of the House of Commons since 1614. It has windows that commemorate Caxton and Milton, who worshipped here, and Sir Walter Raleigh is buried in front of the altar. After about 900 years of service as a parish church for the people of Westminster, St. Margaret’s is now under the care of the Dean and Chapter of Westminster, by Act of Parliament in 1973. It is still in regular use for worship and music recitals.

The sign nearby says that “Visitors are welcome to this beautiful church.” But not right now. Like everything else around Parliament Square, it is closed, but I am hoping to catch it – along with many other things – on a return trip this fall.

The windows of the “Lady Chapel” in Westminster Abbey. They are spectacularly colorful when viewed from the inside, which I didn’t have a chance to do during this trip. The outside is also spectacular, just in a different way. I wonder if there’s an entrance to the roof – it looks like it has a railing.
The main entrance of Westminster Abbey. It is still used for daily worship, and I attended the evening prayer service on Wednesday.

Westminster Abbey, formally titled the Collegiate Church of Saint Peter at Westminster, was founded as a monastery in 960AD under the patronage of King Edgar and direction of Dunstan (later St. Dunstan.) King Edward re-endowed the monastery and built a stone church in honor of St. Peter the Apostle. That church was consecrated on December 28, 1065. Edward died a few days later, which precipitated the arrival of William the Conqueror in 1066, the first English monarch to be crowned in Westminster Abbey. The remains of King Edward were first interred in front of the High Altar, but were moved to a special shrine within the Abbey after he was canonised in 1161 as St. Edward the Confessor, the first Anglo-Saxon saint.

Henry III tore down Edward’s church, except for the nave, and built the current Abbey. Timing of reigns and sovereigns worked out, so that all of the coronation ceremonies have taken place in Westminster Abbey, even though the building itself changed dramatically. The only monarchs not crowned in Westminster Abbey were Edward V and Edward VIII, because neither of them were crowned at all. The history of Westminster Abbey is intertwined with English history, and is an interesting read all by itself.

It was during the time of Elizabeth I that the modern administrative structure of the Abbey was established: a Dean and Prebendaries, responsible to the Sovereign, not to an archbishop or bishop. It is a “Royal Peculiar.” The Dean and Chapter were tasked with much of the civil government of the City of Westminster, a responsibility it had for over three hundred years, which probably explains the religious figures present on the decorations of the Supreme Court building, pictured earlier in the blog. The civil responsibilities were relinquished in the early 20th century, although the Abbey still has an annual service for Judges at the beginning of the legal year. Two other annual services are a thanksgiving for victory in the Battle of Britain, and the marking of Commonwealth Day.

Thursday, I walked through Hyde Park on my way to Mayfair, Grosvenor Square, and Fortnum & Mason.

The Marble Arch
A memorial tribute to President Franklin D. Roosevelt for his leadership during WWII, Grosvenor Square, London
A stone on each corner of the FDR memorial, one for each year of the European War
Walking through Mayfair
I was surprised to see Mackenzie Childs products in Fortnum & Mason, clear across the ocean! The company originated in a small town in Cayuga County, New York.
St. James Palace, the official Royal Court
A memorial to Queen Alexandra, wife of King Edward VII. Unusual in style, it is tucked into the walk between St. James’s Palace and St. James’s Park
The main door of Selfridge’s
The view from the cafe
Tea at Selfridge’s, my dear, is so civilised.
The Marble Arch stands on a corner of Hyde Park. It was created to be an entrance to Buckingham Palace (as was the Wellington Arch,) but didn’t work out. In the end, it was taken apart, and moved to its current location. It was also to this spot that Oliver Cromwell, famous for his role in the English Civil War, having been exhumed, was brought and hung as a traitor by an angry mob.
Feeding the birds in Hyde Park
The Chinatown Gate
I had a rice pot with chicken and sausage and vegetables for lunch.

That’s most of what I saw during this visit to London. Many things I wanted to see are still closed, the museums and palaces, and who knows when the theatres will be open? Still, walking around so much was entertaining by itself – Notting Hill, the Covent Garden Square, Mayfair, Oxford Street, the parks, Chinatown – everyday Brits doing everyday things. And the cabbies, always talkative.

Tomorrow, I will take the LNER train from King’s Cross Station to Waverley Station in Edinburgh, so I can explore Scotland for a while.


On Independence Day, July 4th, my self-isolation was done, and I could wander as freely as anyone else in the UK, so, of course, I did.

I had a list of errands, things I wanted for my stay here. My first stop was (drum roll here) a bookstore! Foyle’s, to be exact. To keep track of my plans, I have been using an 18-month desk calendar. The monthly planner works well for me, being able to envision a larger chunk of time. But I was coming to the end of the calendar, which ends August 31, so I had been looking for a replacement that wasn’t in Arabic or Ethiopian. I figured the UK would be the place, and when I discovered Foyle’s bookstore nearby, I checked it out online. Foyle’s had an 18-month calendar, a different brand, but conveniently beginning July 1, so a pretty good fit. It will end December 31, 2021.

Foyle’s is a lovely bookstore, three floors of different subject areas – philosophy, cooking, science, thousands of books, just waiting for someone to pick them up and give them life. I always struggle to resist. I could have spent hours, but I knew that I didn’t need to buy any books. Well, I gave the travel guidebook section a good go, but the only book I liked was very heavy – glossy photos weigh a lot, so I passed. Any book I bought would live in my suitcase for months. The calendar was a success, so that was my purchase.

I spotted a Starbucks about a block up the street – Charing Cross Road – and stopped in for the first “grande mocha, no whipped cream, please” I’d had in weeks. It tasted just as I remembered, such is the benefit of corporate coffee.

I walked, coffee in hand and mask over face, to the church yard of St. Giles-in-the-Fields, the church I described in an earlier post. The church yard had big trees, scrawny grass, and benches with workmen from the area’s construction projects seated on them, taking a break. The people with dogs (there were several) were sitting on a low wall just by the church. They were regulars. You could tell by the ease of their chatting, and their dogs knew each other.

St. Giles has seen better days, but it still has dignity. The doors were shiny with glossy black paint, and the steps were in good repair. No broken windows.

St. Giles-in-the-Fields

I sat on one of the empty benches, away from people, so I could drink my coffee without my mask on. It was peaceful, the dogs scampering around, their owners chatting, and the four workmen smoking cigarettes together – they were not “socially distancing.” A woman came into the park, pushing a stroller with a little boy, about 12 months old I would guess. She got him out and held his hand as he walked around, a little wobbly on the uneven grass.

Coffee done and disposed of, I walked along Charing Cross Road on my way to the Piazza, an area of spendy shops and cafes in Covent Garden. I was headed to a specific store there. Along the way, I walked down to take a photo of the Palace Theatre, where “Harry Potter and the Cursed Child” was, or had been, playing. All of the theaters, along with concert halls, and such, are still closed.

If you search for it online, the interior of the theatre looks beautiful, but it’s closed currently, so I have no photos.

At the Piazza, I took care of getting a U.K. SIM card for my phone, which was the primary errand, and then wandered around, window shopping. I don’t buy much anymore.

There was a puppeteer playing to the scattered crowd. His marionette was a skeleton. He was a pleasant distraction. Cafes were open, and many had seating outside, which is what I chose. I ordered the incredibly over-priced avocado toast, with hummus and goat cheese. It was beautifully presented and very tasty – it was an interesting combination, and filling. The avocado was soft, and had been piped onto the toast over a layer of hummus, with small chunks of goat cheese on top.

On the step of St. Paul’s Church, Covent Garden, a “humerus” marionette and his human.

I learned from the carving on the church, behind the entertainer, that the first Punch’s Puppet Show was played near this spot in 1662, reported by Samuel Pepys.

On my way to the Piazza, I noticed a building I had seen from my balcony down one of the side streets. After lunch, I went to investigate further.

Covent Garden is noted for its concentration of theatres. Sadly, they are all dark these days, but hopefully that will change soon.
Neighborhoods in London have banners and signs to thank those who have been fighting Coronavirus on the front lines.
The front of St. Paul’s, still an operating church, the “Actors’ Church.” The benches, I think, have been gathered from the square, where there were none. The church gate was locked to keep people from gathering on the benches.
A side street filled with shops that were closed.
Getting closer to the structure.
Passing the Prince of Wales on Drury Lane on the way. It’s fun, recognizing these place names that I’ve heard so often.
The building was a “Grand Lodge,” and apparently the second building. The clock on the tower commemorates the original Grand Lodge, established in 1717. This building was begun with a foundation stone laid by the
“Field-Marshal HRH the Duke of Connaught KG
MW [Most Worthy] Grand Master
on July 1927”
I’m pretty sure the “KG” stands for “Knight of the Garter.”

Curiosity satisfied on that point, I checked out the other side of the road, where some pubs had opened, but shops were a mix of open and closed. The hat shop ladies sported their wares, but were available “By Instore Appointment only:”

After my day of freedom, it was time to return and prepare to move to my next “home” in London.


My welcome to London this time includes fourteen days of “self-isolation.” The “self” part implies that it was of my own choosing. No, but under the shadow of the Covid-19 pandemic, I understand the reasons, and I complying.

I rented a small apartment in Covent Garden, on New Compton Street. It’s on the sixth floor. In the back, it has a balcony overlooking Shaftsbury Avenue, which has a respectable view.

Daybreak from my balcony.

In the front, overlooking New Compton Street, is a broader terrace, which is communal among the four apartments on the sixth floor, but everyone seems to have staked out the “turf” in front of their apartment with benches, chairs, and planters. To their credit, they have divided it equitably, and it encourages caretaking, so all in all, it works.

There are four apartments. My door is not in the photo, but it’s immediately to the right. I love the red geraniums.
I have no idea what those buildings are – I think offices, but I don’t know. Very distinctive.
The church bells chime at St. Giles. I was able to identify it on Google Maps, it’s the only reason I know its name.

St. Giles-in-the-Fields, known as the Poets’ church, is in the London Borough of Camden in the West End, and is part of the Diocese of London, part of the Church of England. The present building was built between 1731-1733 in the Palladian style, the first Palladian style church in England.

The first recorded church on this site was a chapel attached to a monastery and leper hospital founded by Matilda of Scotland, wife of Henry I, in 1101. At that time, the hospital, monastery, and church were well outside the City of London, along the main road to Tyburn and Oxford.

During its first two hundred years, it was supported by the Crown and administered by the City of London, but this changed in 1299, when Edward I ordered that St. Giles would be administered by the “Military and Hospitaller Order of Saint Lazarus,” one of the chivalric orders that survived the Crusades. By 1539, leprosy had abated, and the monastery ministered to the indigent until closed by Henry VIII. Henry closed all monasteries that year, and took over whatever assets they held.

In 1547, the first rector was appointed, and “in-the-Fields” was added to the name. The church building was in deep disrepair, and the succeeding structure was Gothic in style, built 1623-1630 by the Duchess of Dudley.

Another hundred years, and that building was replaced with the current one, which is 290 years old. Apparently, maintenance has improved. It was a major site of burial for the Great Plague victims of the 17th century. Burials of the first victims were in 1665. By the end of the plague year, the poor parish of St. Giles listed 3,216 deaths from plague out of their 2,000 households. Can you imagine?

As for why it was known as the Poets’ Church, John Milton’s daughter, Mary, was baptized here in 1647. The online history of the church says that the children of Lord Byron and Percy Bysshe Shelley and Mary Shelley were baptized here also. It didn’t give the year.

I was curious about the phrase, “the children of Lord Byron and Percy Bysshe Shelley,” so I did some research. It seems that Lord Byron fathered two daughters (no sons,) and the Shelleys had a daughter and a son. Lord Byron was married to Anne Isabella (Annabella) Milbanke. Anne was a highly educated and very religious woman, an English mathematician. Their daughter, Ada, was born in 1815. It was probably this child of Lord Byron that was baptized at St. Giles, although it does not specifically say so.

The church is still active, with, in normal times, a regular schedule of services. The Poetry Society holds their annual meeting in the Vestry House. No doubt, that contributes to the church’s nickname.

Saint Giles, the historical person, was a Greek Christian hermit from Athens, born in 650 AD. He spent most of his life in Provence and Septimania, France. He founded the abbey in Saint-Gilles-du-Gard, presumably named after his death in 710 AD. The tomb became a place of pilgrimage. His feast day is September 1.

Tonga Soa!

I came to Madagascar with a completely open mind, with no expectations except to see lemurs and chameleons. I was intrigued by the idea of new wildlife and a new culture.

Like many, I had watched the animated feature, “Madagascar,” where African animals in a New York City zoo want to go to “the Wild.” They, a hippo, zebra, lion, giraffe, and four delusional penguins, end up in Madagascar. The irony, of course, is that none of those animals exist in Madagascar, nor are there any elephants, rhinoceros, leopards, or antelope, or any other animals that we know from Africa, not even monkeys or apes. The animal life on Madagascar is unique, and so is much of the plant life. The reason lies in the geology of long ago.

Madagascar, like much of the dry land on Earth, was once part of the “supercontinent” of Gondwana. There was another supercontinent called Euroamerica, and they were once part of Pangaea. Geology is a very long story, so I am skipping to the “good parts,” but the rest of the story, at least what we know so far, is easily discoverable through books, videos, or online, if you’re interested.

Gondwana was formed by the collision of smaller land masses millions and millions of years ago. Madagascar, a separate land mass from Africa or India, was sandwiched between them as the African and Indian land masses collided. Africa, part of West Gondwana, began to separate from East Gondwana, which was comprised of Antarctica, Madagascar, India, and Australia, and then East Gondwana began to break up. All of this was unfolding between 165 – 96 million years ago, depending on what one reads, but we can safely say it happened a long, long time ago.

When Africa pulled away, it formed the west coast of Madagascar, and then Madagascar broke away from India about 88 million years ago, forming the east coast. The Seychelles and Reunion were part of the disintegration of East Gondwana. Even though we usually associate Madagascar with Africa, geologically, it is more closely related to India.

Today, most of Madagascar is tropical. A thin strip along the eastern coast is tropical rainforest. The tropical rainforest is bordered on the west by mountains, where the weather is more temperate in temperature and rainfall due to the higher elevation. On the western side of the mountains lies the tropical savannah that takes up about half of the island. In the very south-southwestern portion of Madagascar, it is a steppe area, arid and hot. All of it is beautiful.

I had reserved a room at a guesthouse, Tanana Maeya, in Antananarivo, and Nyhasy, the young man in charge, met me at the airport to bring me there.

I appreciated Nyhasy meeting me. The plane was so late that it was getting dark by the time we landed, plus, I do not enjoy negotiating taxis. I had not been able to get any cash at the airport – the only ATM there was not working – and so my next task for Nyhasy was to help me find an ATM.

But it wasn’t just the airport. None of the ATMs that we visited were working. Ultimately, as it grew later, Nyhasy lent me some money by buying me a pizza (which I thought was pretty decent since he didn’t really know me) before he dropped me at the guesthouse.

The next morning, Nyhasy walked with me around his neighborhood. We continued searching for a working ATM between sightseeing. His aunt, who owned the guesthouse, did not accept credit cards, so I was concerned, not just about eating, but also paying my bill at the guesthouse. No ATMs were working on Sunday, either, and I ended up borrowing cash from Nyhasy so I could eat.

As my experience grew, it became clear that Madagascar runs on cash. This is because the internet infrastructure is so weak that processing is not reliable. In the capital, Antananarivo, I found that hotels could process, and the banks’ ATMs – when I found one that accepted Mastercard – were reliable, but hotels were not reliable outside of the capital, and the banks’ ATMs were not always working. ATMs often ran out of money or the system was down. If I was going to need more cash, it was important to visit an ATM in the morning, and don’t wait until Friday.

I had arrived in Madagascar just a day after Pope Francis arrived. There were banners everywhere, welcoming him to Madagascar, and especially Antananarivo, the capital city, often referred to as “Tana.” I thought I might see him go by in the “Pope-mobile,” or in a secure SUV caravan with heavily tinted windows. I never saw him at all, except on the TV news. They showed scenes of the Pope waving at crowds, but it was all in Malagasy (no English station, not even the BBC,) so I have no idea why he was there or what he did or when he left.

“Tonga Soa” means “Welcome” in Malagasy.
Alternating flags of Madagascar and the Vatican City, in front of one of the government buildings in Ville-Basse.

Where we walked is called the Ville-Basse, and it is where some of the region’s administrative offices are. These were built by the French, who had absorbed Madagascar into their colonial empire in 1897. French is still an official language, along with Malagasy, one of the native languages. English is not an official language, but in the cities many people know at least some English. Before the French built the roads and buildings here, the area was reclaimed swamp land, a place used first for growing rice, then drained further and used to garrison soldiers for the kings and queens.

These buses run regular routes and are very inexpensive – they serve commuters, mainly.

The young men on the outside run along with the minibus, shouting their route (not everyone reads) and looking for customers. Having gotten everyone who is interested, he then jumps on board and the bus speeds up to the next stop. There is a route, but no schedule. Experienced riders know that the bus arrives about every half hour during rush hour (yes, there is one,) and forty-five minutes to an hour in off-peak times. Frequency is dictated by how fast the bus fills up and the amount of vehicle traffic.

People with something to sell congregate in the areas around public squares.
The Carlton Hotel, one of the places where I tried an ATM. No luck, plus the staff was singularly uninterested in helping me find one.

Football, as we Americans know it, is played only in the United States. In the rest of the world, soccer, called football by everyone else, is the most popular sport. Madagascar has had a football team since about 1974. They built “Stade Municipal de Mahamasina” in 1986 to house their team, and Madagascar hosted the seventh Ocean Island Games in 2007. In 2019, Madagascar played in the quarter finals of the Africa Cup of Nations, but they haven’t made it into the World Cup playoffs yet. The stadium seats about 22,000 people, and regularly hosts rugby games as well as football, plus the occasional live music event.

Madagascar’s stadium, used to host football and rugby games, and live music events. “Mahamasina” is the name of an ointment-yielding plant that grew in the wetlands.

Lac Anosy was created in the mid-1800s during the reign of Queen Ranavalona I, no doubt to help drain the land as she had ordered the reclaiming the area to station soldiers. Today, the artificial lake has an island in the middle, with a causeway that connects it to the southern shore. A large stele was raised in 1927, constructed to honor the Malagasy soldiers who died fighting for France during WWI. The angel was added in 1935, designed by a famous French sculptor. The guidebook describes it as a “black-winged angel,” but it looked to me as if the angel and her wings were gold-colored.

The WWI Memorial on its island in Lac Anosy, Ville-Basse, in Antananarivo.
Soroptomists International’s emblem is displayed in the park surrounding Lac Anosy. I found there were also Rotary and Lions clubs in Madagascar.
People with something to sell set up shop wherever there is room.

Nyhasy was a very nice young man who worked as an accountant and managed his aunt’s guest house. His aunt was a flight attendant and was frequently gone. The guesthouse was on a side road, and had the advantage of being quiet, but it turned out (which was not clear in the listing) that I had rented one of three bedrooms (en-suite) in the lower apartment unit. The kitchenette, dining area, and lounge area were common use areas. While I was there, two couples and a couple of young men traveling together came and went, guests in the other two bedrooms. My room didn’t feel very private, and I wanted to be closer to downtown, so I ended up moving to a hotel called the “Saka Manga.”

The Saka Manga, which means “Blue Cat” in Malagasy, was a boutique hotel, with a variety of differently styled rooms and twisty passages through the hotel area. It had a pool that no one swam in and a pool side cafe, in addition to a full-service restaurant, so living was easier. It was two blocks from a working ATM. And, it was not very much more expensive than the Tanana Maeya.

My room in Saka Manga. The thing that looks like it has eyes is a chair, and the eyes serve as night lights. I stayed in their smallest room, which was really small, but it worked fine for me.

Saka Manga did not have any immediate contacts for city tours, so they directed me to a public park, sort of a city square, where the tourist office was located. It was a not very long walk along very narrow streets filled with one-way traffic bouncing over cobblestone pavement.

By this time, I had been in Africa for about six months, and had grown accustomed to walking in streets, right next to moving cars, watching both the traffic and where I put my feet. There are occasional accidents, but surprisingly few, considering the tight quarters we all maneuvered through.

At the tourist center, there were maps and brochures about Tana, and they had organized tour itineraries for the city, with fixed prices, although guides always welcome gratuities. I hired a guide to meet me here at the park in the morning. The afternoon was very hot, and I preferred to walk in the morning.

I needed a break from the hot sun before walking back to the hotel. I found a small cafe and sat, drinking a Coke and looking through the brochure for the tour and watching life go on around me. Five streets all came together here, ending at the park. Lacking any clear direction, cars were bumper to bumper, and building security guards made tips by reserving parking spaces in front of hotels, banks, and businesses. Selling parking spaces was a developed cottage industry in Tana.

The cafe I went to was in the white building on the left, which was a small hotel. This park is where we started our city tour the next day.

I had one more task before heading back, I remembered – replacing my phone. I found a promotional offer at the bank with a viable ATM. It wasn’t great, frankly, but it would carry me through Madagascar and it was cheap. Now, re-armed with mobile communication, I set off to relax with a drink and dinner by the pool.